Just under four miles each way, this hike follows old ranch roads that lead down to a secluded cobble and driftwood covered beach.Īs the only visitor exploring Smugglers Cove, I wondered about the life of pirates, smugglers, sea otter hunters, and bootleggers that utilized the area as a secret hideaway. I considered the historical irony that a stolen island could have more federal and environmental protection than its original inhabitants.Īfter an early lunch, I hiked out to Smugglers Cove. I set up my camp remembering I was a guest on sacred land. I’m sure the eucalyptus trees provided shade, windbreaks, fuel, and construction material for the islands new inhabitants. In Santa Cruz island’s case, it appears it was the landowners and European ranchers who planted eucalyptus trees. Colonization often sees the introduction of non-native flora and fauna. Claiming a land that is not yours, removing its inhabitants, and introducing new inhabitants who identify themselves as landowners. I learned early in grade school that colonization is a combination of claiming, removing and introducing. Who planted these non-native and non-invasive trees? I doubt it was the Chumash Indians who considered this island home for over 11,000 years. Surrounded and shaded by massive blue gum eucalyptus trees, I wondered how Australian trees ended up on a remote island off the coast of California. Today, their population has increased to twelve hundred.Įntering the campground, I felt like I was walking in Australia. With their numbers dropping below a hundred in 2004, a science-based restoration program was initiated. Greeted by a welcoming party of island foxes, it was hard to imagine that less than a decade ago this species was on the brink of extinction. The first spot was the landing beach and the second was four miles away at Smugglers Cove.Īfter registering with the ranger as a camper, I left the beach and headed inland to the campground. As a non-smoker, I smiled when the ranger announced that only two locations on the island permitted smoking. Two national park rangers then conducted a brief orientation, covering basic rules and precautions that were specific to the island. In less than thirty minutes, the unloading process was complete. Once all the passengers were on shore, an assembly line formed to unload everyone’s camping gear. I still remember my first experience whale watching in Cape Cod, Massachusetts.Īrriving in Scorpion Harbor, the Island Packers crew prepared the passengers for a dingy landing. Living in southern California, it’s easy to take whale-watching opportunities for granted. In spite of my motion sickness, I reached for my camera and staggered over to the port side of the boat.įor the next several minutes, the Baryshnikov’s of the sea captivated passengers with their deep dives and tail flukes. With Santa Cruz Island in the distance, several migrating whales approached our vessel. Their deaths led to moving the shipping lane one nautical mile, increasing the distance between vessels and whales, and hopefully reducing the chances of future ship strikes. In 2007, four blue whales were killed by cargo ship collisions. Sharing their feeding areas with cargo shipping lanes, migrating whales are vulnerable to ship strikes in the channel. Recognized as one of the most diverse and biologically sensitive ecosystems in the world, the Santa Barbara Channel is the seasonal home of blue, fin, and humpback whales. Nothing has successfully worked! These days my best case scenario is to take Dramamine, keep my food intake to a minimum, sit outside, face the horizon, and suffer through it.Īfter leaving the harbor, it wasn’t long before we entered the Santa Barbara Channel. Over the years I have tried medication, acupressure wristbands, and ginger chews in attempts to alleviate my motion sickness symptoms. With an 8am departure, I loaded my gear and boarded the Island Packers boat.Įmbracing the reality that I would be spending the next hour managing my motion sickness, I headed for a bench seat towards the bow of the boat. After being fortunate enough to obtain a three-day camping permit to the island, I booked my boat ride and headed for Ventura harbor. Known for its coastline cliffs, sea caves, and isolated beaches, Santa Cruz Island is a mecca for divers, snorkelers, kayakers, campers, hikers, and nature lovers. Located off the southern California coast, the park’s five islands offer sanctuary and solitude for those willing to forsake some basic creature comforts. Considered to be the “Galapagos of North America”, the Channel Islands is one of America’s most remote and least visited national parks.
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